Utrecht

So, there I was, zipping down the A2 highway with Hamza, my young taxi driver, who, out of nowhere, says, “I’m from France!” Now, I don’t know what he was reading off my face, but I was like, “Oh? France? Let me hear more about that later!” I had just wrapped up a wonderful weekend in Utrecht, my old stomping grounds—my alma mater, in fact—where I was a surgery professor for over 20 years. I also studied to become a veterinarian there. Fun fact: Utrecht University’s Faculty of Veterinary Medicine is the ONLY vet school in the Netherlands and the first outside the US to be accredited by the AVMA. Pretty fancy, right? That’s how I ended up doing an externship in Athens, Georgia, years ago. But I digress.

Utrecht is a gorgeous student town, with beautiful canals, stunning old houses, churches, and loads of historical sites. Founded ages ago, it’s a history lover’s dream. Utrecht, one of the Netherlands’ oldest cities, traces its origins back to Roman times when it was established as a military fortification called Trajectum around 47 AD. The city grew in importance during the Middle Ages, becoming a center for Christianity in the region, with its bishop wielding significant power. By the 8th century, it was the religious heart of the northern Netherlands. In 1122, Utrecht officially gained city rights, marking its rise as a bustling hub of trade, culture, and education.

One of its biggest claims to fame? The Dom Tower! The tallest church tower in the Netherlands, built between 1321 and 1382 It was originally part of a massive church complex. But, plot twist—tornado! Yes, tornadoes in Holland. Who knew, right? The tornado tore the church apart, leaving the Dom Tower all alone, standing solo like a dramatic character in a Dutch soap opera. But hey, it recently got a full makeover and now shines like the star of a medieval renovation show. Absolutely worth the look.

The day of my departure, however, Utrecht decided it was a brilliant idea to host a children’s marathon. Now, I’m not against kids running around in circles, but they shut down the ENTIRE city center! I stayed near the Dom Tower, and no taxis could get to me. Cue emergency evac! I grabbed my bags and hoofed it out of the city center just in time to catch a taxi and make my flight.

Enter Hamza. He’s a solid guy. Told me all about why he drives for a taxi company instead of Uber. He’s been at it for 1.5 years and likes it because he can drive his own car and, for the most part, enjoys the perks of working for a bigger company. Plus, it allows him to take care of his wife and their 3-year-old daughter, who, according to him, is an adorable troublemaker. “She’s super naughty, but it makes me laugh all day!” he says. Hamza works hard, 12-hour shifts most days, though he spends about 8 of those actually on the road. He starts at 4 AM (yikes!) but sometimes wraps up around 3 PM to spend time with his daughter. Needless to say, she won’t be running in any marathons anytime soon—Hamza was just as baffled by the city center closure as I was.

Now, about that whole “I’m from France” thing—turns out Hamza wasn’t actually born in Marseille but moved there before relocating to Holland when he was 11. His dad worked for a big international Dutch company, and before all that, they lived in Morocco. Quite the global shuffle!

Hamza’s dad still shuttles between the south of France and the Netherlands, and last year, he took a grand tour of Morocco instead of just visiting the family town. “You should go!” Hamza tells me. “It’s beautiful, but the traffic is insane. I prefer driving here where there are at least some rules.” Right as he says that, a Dutch driver cuts us off in the classic last-minute merge. Oh, the irony.

“I thought I caught a bit of a French accent when you said ‘Noorden’ (the North),” I tell him. His Dutch is flawless now, but he admits, “When I moved here at 11, I didn’t speak a word. It was tough, but now I love it. The Netherlands is beautiful and safe.” He visits his mom every 3-4 months, nodding with that look people get when they talk about how important family is.

Ah, that brings me to the Netherlands vs. Holland debate—the geographical version of “Is it a tomato or a fruit?” Technically, the Netherlands is the whole country, and Holland is just a part of it—two provinces, North and South Holland, to be exact. But for some reason, everyone decided to call the whole place “Holland,” kind of like calling the entire UK “London.” Imagine telling someone from Utrecht they’re from Holland. It’s like telling someone from Texas they live in New York—prepare for the side-eye! So next time someone says “Holland,” just smile and nod, knowing you’re now in on the country’s little identity crisis.

Just as we pull up to Schiphol Airport, I spot a flock of geese flying south. Cue the dramatic realization that winter is coming, and there go my favorite feathered friends until spring. But hey, at least I’m lucky enough to fly south myself—straight to Kansas, to reunite with my family and little Chippie! Ah, the joys of migration, human or otherwise.